Reviews
The Age Good Food Guide 2008
Your Restaurants
The Age Good Food Guide 2009
The once eponymous Neilsons is no longer quite that: founder and erstwhile maitre d' Brad Neilson has moved on. But long serving chef Lewis Prince still heads the kitchen and is indeed a co-owner with Rebecca Cauchi, the savvy new face out the front. The trade mark stylish decor and table trappings remain unchanged and the adventerous menu maintains a standard rarely found in Gippsland. A great way to experience Neilsons is Prince's eight course degustation dinner but it demands both time and appetite. For those daunted by that proscpect, there is still much from which to choose. House made dukkah and potato and herb bread arrive with the menus and are soon followed by a delightful amuse-gueule of goats cheese souffle. Follow with 'something light' likle the signature dish of Gippsland rabbit, blue cheese and hazelnut Tortellini served with asparagus and verjuice butter sauce. 'Larger plate' offerings include poached wagyu ox cheek in a hot sweet and sour red curry with pickled cucumber, or maybe honey roasted duck with a rice omelette roll and sticky peanut salad. For a 'something sweet' finish, try roasted pears with a star anise and cinnamon glaze served with vanilla double cream.
The Age Good Food Guide 2008
An outwardly modest restaurant housed in a refurbished cottage, chic Neilsons is anything but modest once you pass through its portal. Black ceilings, chandeliers and crimson walls hung with art photographs match the warmth of the charming greeting from maitre d’ Brad Neilson. And the placement of candelit tables in several low-lit rooms creates a sense of intimacy enhanced by comfortable seating, fine napery and crystal glassware. Chilled water, house-baked sourdough and an amuse-gueule of tempura scallop all combine to set the stage for a dining experience rarely equalled in Gippsland. For the adventurous there’s an eight course degustation menu, but a succulent alternative is the chef’s specialities: caramelised ox cheek poached in black vinegar for 36 hours, or similarly slow-braised salted lamb neck with caramelised sweetbreads and date puree. Line-caught, whole-baked snapper might be the fish of the day, and a local favourite is crab and scallop risotto with coconut cream, kaffir lime and mango. ‘Something Sweet’ rounds off the menu, perhaps cardamom and orange crème caramel with a crisp pistachio wafer.
15/20
Your Restaurants
Set inside a bright Californian bungalow, you could hardly be blamed for mistaking this restaurant for grandma's cottage. A white picket fence and thick green foliage surround the outside, while displays of paintings and photographs inside showcase the work of local artists. The lunchtime menu offers a modest selection of seafood meals such as salt and pepper squid, freshly shucked oysters, a salmon omelette and even a smoked salmon baguette - although salads, pastas, risotti and burgers are also available. For dinner, the aged Gippsland beef is a standout, served with a kipfler potato and horseradish tart, roasted baby tomatoes and a shiraz sauce. A good selection of wines and some home-style desserts - including a warm chocolate and almond pudding - complete the charm of this snug eatery.
Assia Benmedjdoub
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The Age Epicure
Prince of a deal
One of the few decent restaurants east of Dandenong - Neilsons in Traralgon - is changing hands, though that is not necessarily cause for alarm.
Owners Brad Neilson and Damien Gannon - who are moving to Melbourne - are selling to their head chef, the wonderfully named Lewis Prince. He tells us he plans to keep things "pretty much as they are".
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